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      十七歲的遠行

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        總會想起多年前的那個晚上,當時我十七歲。站臺上,全家人給我送行。我面前是一個大旅行包,還有一個碩大的行囊,用背包帶捆得很緊,里面是我的衣物和一床新被子?!   ?/p>

      我媽站在一旁,又遞過來一個書包,裝得鼓鼓囊囊的。天氣很熱,我一面示意他們回去,一面把裝滿食物的書包遞還給我媽,說:“北京什么吃的都有,用不著這些。”    

      事實上,我媽的擔心,從我填報高考志愿時就開始了。我想讀北京的學校,這讓她隱隱感到不安。“為什么不報考南方的學校呢?”她總是輕聲嘟囔,“聽說北京的糧食供應里,還有四分之一的雜糧呢。”母親是中學教師,對學生說的是艱苦奮斗、建設“四化”的大道理,但回到自己家里,她還是希望兒子能有更好的生活條件?!   ?/p>

      我母親出生在江淮之間的六安,大學畢業時,為了愛情,和父親一起來到皖東北的小縣城教書。在我童年的記憶里,她從來沒有停止過對皖北的吐槽,其中最多的是衛生習慣和飲食習慣?!   ?/p>

      她總會用很長的篇幅,懷念大別山區我外公外婆家的小山村,風景有多秀麗,臘肉有多解饞,糍粑有多香甜,蔬菜的種類有多豐富,甚至連簡單地用糯米面制作的餅子——糯米粑粑,都被她形容得神乎其神。要用什么樣的米和糯米搭配,泡多久,怎么磨,怎么蒸,怎么放到石碓里面舂,最后要放到冬水里保存……說起這些來,她如數家珍?!   ?/p>

      其實我去過外婆家,小村子并不像母親描述的那樣山清水秀,外公家的房子也非常低矮,家中飯食的種類更是少得可憐?!   ?/p>

      童年的我認為,淮北平原無論從地形上、氣候上,還是物產上、食物上,都比大別山區好。我小學的鄉土教材里,有這樣一首詩:“有人說它是南方,有人說它是北方,南方和北方手拉手,坐在淮河的岸上。”看看,南北適中,不冷不熱,多好的地方啊?!   ?/p>

      不過,外婆的山村也以另一種形式,存在于我們位于淮北平原的家里。每年冬、夏兩季,父親都會拿著包裹單去郵電局,在高高的綠色柜臺后面,有外婆定期寄來的包裹?!   ?/p>

      夏天寄來的是一種茶葉,叫瓜片,味道奇苦,但非常耐泡。冬天寄的更多,咸肉、咸魚、臘鴨、臘鵝,還有被我母親稱作傳奇的糯米粑粑?!   ?/p>

      外婆家的糯米粑粑是一個個實心兒的、呆頭呆腦的圓坨坨。將粑粑簡單蒸一蒸,立刻會變得軟糯,蘸上白砂糖,可以直接吃。我媽還喜歡將粑粑切成塊,放在菜湯或肉湯里煮,口感也不錯。即便是用火鉗夾著它,在灶膛里輕輕地烤一烤,也會散發出奇異的谷物的香氣?!   ?/p>

      每次看到孩子們吃粑粑時,流露出對食物的渴望,我媽都會特別得意,并為她是一個“南方人”而深深自豪。南方富庶,北方貧瘠,這是我媽的邏輯?!   ?/p>

      當然,這并沒有影響一個十七歲的高中畢業生的選擇。這一年的九月,我到了北京,在嶄新的環境里開始了大學生活?!   ?/p>

      然而不到一個月的時間,我便開始感到哪里不對,刨除想家的因素,最主要的就是食欲不振。按說,北京廣播學院的食堂在北京高校里算做得不錯的,我和同學也偶爾湊份子“進城”去吃北京的館子,但這些都沒有辦法平復我對家中食物的思念?!   ?/p>

      一個人只有離開自己熟悉的生活環境,到了完全陌生的地方,才會理解,所謂的故鄉不僅僅意味著熟悉的人群和熟悉的景物,熟悉的味覺習慣顯然也是故鄉重要的組成部分?!   ?/p>

      我有一個科普作家朋友,叫土摩托,他對美食家筆下所謂的“故鄉滋味”,或者“媽媽的味道”這樣解釋:除了人在童年時代養成的味覺習慣,每個人消化系統的菌群都像自己的指紋一樣,有著獨特的組織方式。長時間吃慣了一種或幾種食物,腸道的菌群就會相對固定下來,只要遇到類似的食物,就能熟練地進行各種分解,而遇到陌生的食物,它們就會手足無措,甚至會鬧情緒?!   ?/p>

      在北京讀大學的第一個學期,我的腸胃一直在鬧情緒,直到我寒假回到家,報復性地吃喝了一整天,世界才逐漸安靜下來?!   ?/p>

      等再次踏上去往北京的列車,我的包里已經塞滿各種故鄉的食物:燒雞、酥糖、臘鵝,還有我媽特地裝的糯米粑粑?!   ?/p>

      說到這糯米粑粑,還有一個小故事。大學同宿舍有一個維吾爾族同學,看到我掛在床頭網兜里的粑粑,幾次欲言又止。后來,他終于說:“這個東西,我聽說是大油做的……”其實,外婆家的粑粑是純素的,除了米,沒有添加任何別的東西。不過為了維護我們的友誼,我決定改變每天消滅一塊粑粑的節奏?!   ?/p>

      與別的同學分享吧,一來舍不得,二來別人也很難理解其中的美妙。那天晚上,我買了點大白菜,和著方便面的調料,煮了一飯盆湯,把剩下的五塊粑粑全部放進去,并且全部吃完,撐得我直翻白眼?!   ?/p>

      至今想來,十七歲那年的離家,是我成長過程中非常重要的時間節點?!   ?/p>

      它讓我切實感受到一個叫故鄉的東西,不僅從心理層面,也從生理的層面。與此同時,我開始主動嘗試和接納更加豐富的食物,要知道在讀大學之前,我甚至不能吃辣椒?!   ?/p>

      假如沒有十七歲的遠行,我現在是否也會像我媽一樣,成為一個口味界線非常清晰的人呢?我真的說不準?!   ?/p>

      后來,我成了一名紀錄片導演,這一職業需要我不停地與人打交道,而食物恰好是人與人交流最便捷的媒介。為此,我不得不帶著好奇心,品味各種匪夷所思的吃食,漸漸地,我變成了一個“世界胃”,可以出國十幾天不吃一頓中餐,心安理得地享用幾乎所有的當地食物?!   ?/p>

      更難得的是,我開始從餐桌上發現,食物不再是一種簡單的、慰藉腸胃的物質。它身上富集的信息既有鮮明的個性,又有非常強烈的生活氣息?!   ?/p>

      即便是同一種食物,在地球不同的地方出現,它既會有同一性,又會有差異性;有時異曲同工,有時又大相徑庭?!   ?/p>

      所以,我總結說,吃百家飯,行千里路,等同于讀萬卷書?!   ?/p>

      食物與其所在地區氣質的某種勾連,以及食物自身流變的秘密一直深深地吸引著我?!   ?/p>

      就拿粑粑來說,這種稻米制品,通過不同的加工手段,居然能演變出那么多美食:粉、圓、粽、糕、糍、丸、糟、糜、堆……游走在故鄉和世界之間,尋找風味,尋找人和食物之間的關聯,這一切,都始于我十七歲那年的遠行?!   ?/p>

      回顧這些年吃過的飯、走過的路,《風味人間》里有句旁白很能代表我的感受:“人的口味就是這樣,有時像巖石一般頑固,有時又像流水一樣豁達。”

      Tags: 經典語錄

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